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Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Rule #37

New Rule #37.

Fresh is not seamlessly synonymous with Local.

Fresh is good and should be assumed without further emphasis in any food service operation.
Local can also be good but is often clouded by the politics of food elitism thus in many instances creating a value index that simply does not translate to deliciousness.

If our efforts do not result in distinguishably better tasting food, what is the point.
Certainly the grower or the producer can do the best they can with organic natural methods, wholesome feed for farm animals and birds but that is not the end game.

The cook has a fiduciary responsibility to make the sum greater than the parts.
Every time I hear a cook, professional or domestic, use the phrase "I just wanted the natural flavors to shine through", I get deeply suspicious unless of course I am eating sushi at Tsukiji and on this side of the world Karuma, Yasuda or Urasawa.

3 establishments that rarely use anything local and sometimes your "local" fish takes a redeye to Tokyo and back.
Deliciousness is about synergy not politics.

Yasuda

Karuma

Urasawa

Tsukiji

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My favorite recent piece of junk mail: a food company that sells "local" products and will ship them to your door. Seriously. I tossed the mail or I'd give you the link.

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