Some days Innovation gives way to just practicing well worn techniques, besides the fact that I had to make 250 of these babies by hand yesterday, having an electric Imperia as opposed to those silly hand cranked machines makes things go by much quicker. In the end, nothing new here, just pasta and cheese.
Rochetta Francoboli
Summer Truffle
Peas
Pave Vecchio
Pistachio.
Elemental pasta.
Happy end users.
After reading the Insieme review in the Times this morning, Bruni mentions a rather intruiging soup with La Tur ravioli. I never thought about using AOC soft ripened cheeses or thier Italian counterparts as ravioli fillings exclusively. I love Epoisses but it's so damn gooey, I suppose it can be chilled and piped into a plaque for the tiniest half-inch square raviolettis, after a quick stop at the panhandler, I found the correct mold and some 00 flour. I envision a cheese ravioli in a clarified cheese and hazelnut broth. Amuse bouche or cheese course. That is the question.
I was hanging out with Jack Morgan Today and tasted an Italian sheeps milk cheese named Moliterno, further research is in progress but I was immediately blown away by the nutty parmesan-like texture with a salty tang that Jack identified as a combination of truffle and anchovy pastes added to the whey. Moliterno is a solid cheese on it's own but has the strength and character to support a composed cheese course.
I started with peas to harmonize with the truffle and nuttiness, once that flavor association is established, it is simply a matter of Ducassian multiplicity to add the next logical ingredient, pea shoots. I suppose I could have added pea soil but Wylie has already gone there.
Moliterno is paired here with griddled peas in peanut oil, moscatel vinegar, Pea shoots and Fennel Pollen.
I have always been aware of not allowing myself to be convinced that the flavor of truffle is synonymous with truffle oil, Moliterno seems to lack that artificial flavor and aroma of truffle oil and allows a refreshing alternative to pairing cheeses solely with ridiculously sweet condiments.
The only thing worse than truffle oil may be truffle honey.....ewww.
At least I resisted saying "PEAS a la PLANCHA".
At the end of the day, the finished product provides further inspiration, looking and thinking about the last picture in this series, it seems this dish will make a lovely base for a sauceless roasted loin of lamb or perhaps a butter poached lobster with Sudachi Lime froth.....or is it air ?
I love a traditional martini with olives, olives are one of my favourite flavors. I had a muscat grape martini in London a while back and it sparked the idea of disguising grapes as olives. What's the point ?
Epoisse is my favourite cheese, the odor can be slightly overwhelming however what it lacks in the atmosphere of Crabtree and Evelyn, it makes up for in flavor. Washed rind, Cow's whole milk from Burgundy. The Berthaut product is OK but the Chalancey is transcedental. Chalancay's little brother Affine Au Chablis is also quite delicious.
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