STUDIOKITCHEN

Defying Seasonality and Preserving The Tastes of Spring and Summer

While I applaud and mostly adhere to seasonal cooking, I believe there are several transitional ingredients that while they may only grow in a particular season, the attributes they bring to a dish are not inherently locked into that season. Corn for example is best served in the summer but is it really. Does it not depend on what exactly you are doing with it, I probably will not argue for a grilled corn on the cob in January on the East coast of the United States but if we eat Polenta why can it not include corn kernels or juice saved from the summer. Why can't we just juice the bloody corn and freeze it for multiple preparations.

The reason is the "myopic seasonality local organic police" won't see the forest for the trees and blindly assault your competence or commitment to what you do. Others on the "fresh" bandwagon will complain that you are using frozen ingredients which amounts to silly generic logic, after all freezing is dependent on what exactly you are freezing and how you are storing it.

Why can't I use the Lovage or Summer Savory I grew this summer from November through March if I store it properly. I could do the same with corn juice or other things that will not lose the qualities they add to the final product. The process with the green herbs is to rapid blanch, puree, tamis, freeze in shape, double cryovac. The process with corn juice among other things will no doubt be similar.

Blanch and puree.

Tamis

Freeze in shape for efficient storage.

Double Cryovac.

The most important part of thinking is thinking ahead.

What Do You Never Run Out Of

I never run out of Parmesan Cheese, I may get dangerously low but it's like blood pressure to me.
Parmesan always saves the day.
Pasta in the house, basil in the garden, pancetta in the freezer, eggs are a constant.

Carbonara is the weeknight life saver, a simple expression of flavor and authenticity.

I never run out of Parmesan cheese.
Olive Oil
Garlic
Ginger
and the list goes on.....

Hot Hot !

Clearly the best hot sauce in the land. Thanks for the tip Talbot.

Agen Prunes

I use prunes for a variety of things, my favourite being the classic Prune-Argmagnac ice cream.
Agen prunes are widely regarded as the best on the planet, ripe, moist and bursting with flavor.
You can now find zees at Fairway on the UWS, the one on Broadway next to Citarella.

Agen is in the south of France, Aquitaine I think.

Prune-Bergamot Brown Butter.
Reconstitute prunes in very strong slightly sweetened high quality Earl Grey tea.
Let infuse and strain.
Noisette some butter.
Deglaze with prune-tea liquid.
Add some water and Shiro-Dashi.
Bring to a boil.
Infuse for 2 minutes with fresh curry leaves.
Chinois .
Adjust with salt and Lemon jus.
Emulsify with lecithin.

Works with Fish such as Hamachi, Kona Kampachi, Sawara.
Fabulous with Four Story Poularde or similarly complex chicken.
Same goes for any roasted pork preparation in which case you could use the pitted prunes as a garnish after warming up in the sauce.

More Pantry Staples

A few more things I can't live without.

All Specialty sugar from India Tree.

D'arbo Jams.

Montegottero cold pressed nut oils.

INDIA TREE

Beans

I love beans in all forms, soups, dips, chili, purees or West african fritters. Do you know beans ? Not unless you know Steve Sando. Check out :   Rancho Gordo.

Mostarda Cremona

Mostarda or Mustard fruits. Fruits or vegetables that have affinity for sweetness such as watermelon rinds or butternut squash. Sugar. Water. A few drops (with eye protection) of Senape. A fennel mostarda would be delicious as would one with the green coriander seeds. I plan on using a sugar solution of 20 on the Baume Scale. That would be 2 cups of water and 255grams of sugar. Now the experiments begin.

Kewpie

My favourite mayonnaise and the base of many a salad dressing.
By the way did you know if you click these little pictures, they get bigger ?