STUDIOKITCHEN

Hamachi-Tomato-Rhubarb

Sudachi-Lime cured Hamachi
Tomato Rhubarb Sorbet
Leaves and Shoots of Summer

Paired with Ice cold Yuzu Shochu

Stay Cool.

Dinner UES 4.19.08

Hiramasa Tartare
Yuzu Kosho . Lemon Gelee
Tomato

Foie Gras
Burnt Maple Sugar
Apricot . Gingerbread

Ris de Veau
Marcona Almond
Ramps . Morels . Cauliflower
Curry Leaf Emulsion

Pork Cheek "Tart-Tatin"
White Bean-Benton's Bacon Ice Cream
Sweet Fennel Jus

St Nizer
Butterscotch Ice Cream
Smoked Brown Butter Soil
"Instant" Coffee Salt

D'Yquem Vertical Tasting

After experimenting the entire weekend, I finally came up with a menu that will actually work for the dessert wine dinner. Conventional wisdom would dictate a menu of pseudo dessert items but the client wants a full-on savory meal and thus the challenge was to find not so sweet dishes that had enough "sweetness" without going over the edge.

For the experiment, I tasted all the dishes with a 375ml bottle of Rieussec  obviously for the cost factor. I suppose if it works for Rieussec, it ought to work for D'Yquem.
Thus, here it is.

Foie Gras
Kumquat
Gingerbread Soil

Foie Gras
Soup Dumpling
Passionfruit Consomme

Black Cod
Saikyo Miso
Chantenay Carrot . Cardamon . Vanilla

Milk Fed Poularde
Toasted Barley . Leeks . Jurancon

Pork Belly
Miso Dulche de Leche
White Asparagus . Crosnes

Green Apple Mostarda
Gelee of Anselmi Recioto Soave "I capitelli"
Yoghurt Sorbet . Elderflower

Menu Composition in Bergen County.

I was in a discussion recently about whether chef's should be classified as artists or artisans, besides the fact that there are several of us who fall outside  both categories, the answer lies in the forum in which you practice your culinary prowess and the audience you are feeding. In the world of private or personal chefs we essentially follow the client's needs and fill in the blanks. Most of my past and present clients are extremely wine savvy with cellars that would rival all but the best restaurants. When it comes to food however, they understand good food and appreciate subtle and direct flavors but what they lack is the actual mechanics of what it takes to assemble the plate.
When it comes to putting together a menu in this case, the client *specifically* chose his proteins and left me to fill in the blanks. I suggested 7 or 9 small courses as opposed to 5 moderate plates but that is quickly shot down due to time constraints. We end up  with a plan for 5 courses of "approachable" food with creative touches. I find the "creative touches" mildly creative but they will be delicious if slightly boring. I am definitely an artisan today thanks to the lead time of corned beef. At the end of the day, the client said "we definitely want chocolate and pork bellies"

Cured Sea Scallops
Carrot Sorbet
Cardamon and Lime Air

Chinese Celery Veloute
Corned Beef
Flavors of Steak Tartare
Smoked Salt-Almond Condiment

Golden Miso Cavatelli
Rock Shrimp
Lovage
Fennel Cream

Berkshire Pork Belly
Cipollini Tart Tatin
Wild Asparagus
Onion-Xeres Caramel

Chocolate Coffee "Panna Cotta"
Fruitti di Bosco
Gingerbread.

M Dinner.

Spring Garlic Soup
Roasted Parsley - Garlic Scape Puree
Boneless Chicken Wings
Toasted Almonds

Sweet Corn - Parmesan Custard
Black Truffle Caramel
Toasted Brioche

Fennel Salt Roasted Suzuki
Caramelized Eggplant - Pistachio Caponata
Sultanas and Lovage
Yuzu Brown Butter

Loin of Australian Lamb
Jerusalem Artichoke Puree
Braised Lamb Croquette
Fennel Marmalade

Chocolate Cherry Ganache
Coffee Fluid Gel
Smoked Chocolate Soil
Pistachio Ice Cream